[咖啡臥遊] 單飛的 Guji

偶爾會找找新的店家或新的豆子嚐鮮,但是基於風味穩定、成本和取得方便,這一年來常備家中,做為每日咖啡(Coffee of the Day)首選的有兩款豆子,來自耶加雪夫地區的艾瑞嘉(Kebel Aricha) 和衣索比亞西部谷吉 (Guji Zone) 的豆子。

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依照維基百科資料經緯度標示,Guji Zone 中心位置在衣索比亞西部

非洲的資料比起歐美地區相對貧乏,再則衣索比亞在近二十年有過兩次行政區重劃, 2008 年之後 ECX (Ethiopia Commodity Exchange)成立,因為咖啡產區的消長,以產區的重要性重劃過咖啡產區,有時候產區的名聲和重要性遠超過行政區級別,這些資訊對於「外國人」是不大好搞懂的。在查詢耶加雪夫資料的時候,我就嚐盡苦頭。

網上能找到的 Guji 資料若不是語焉不詳,就是互相矛盾,比如下面來自兩個不同網站的資料,對 Guji 地理位置的說法就不一致,至少有一個資料源不靠譜,或者兩個都不靠譜,所以也只能相信維基百科了。根據維基百科 Guji Zone 的經緯度說明,標示在谷歌地圖上,看起來谷吉區在衣索比亞地理中心正西方,斯丹摩 Sidamo 則在地理中心偏南方一點的位置。

  1. This coffee is grown in the Guji area of southern Ethiopia’s Sidama (previously Sidamo) province.
  2. This is a coffee from a remote area of the Sidamo district, quite far from where most Sidamo coffees originate. In fact, it is mostly known for the large gold mine in the area, and sadly the local tensions between mine workers and farmers becomes open conflict.

個人覺得比較靠譜的資料,來自一個澳洲的咖啡商網站,簡單說,就是 Guji 從 2015 年開始,翅膀硬了,自立門戶,不再是 Sidamo 的附庸小弟啦:

Sidamo is a province in the southern part of Ethiopia, with its capital city at Irgalem, and after 1978 at Awasa. …(omitted)…. The coffee growing region of Guji once was included in the Sidama designation, but in the year 2015 was recognized and separated as a distinct zone by the ECX. The merit for this new classification lies in the unique high quality of coffees from Guji, which include the woreda of Oddo Shakiso, Addola Redi, Uraga, Kercha, and Bule Hora. Larger private farms are becoming more commonplace in Shakiso, which also happens to be a hotbed of mining for precious metals.

依照臺灣某豆商的資料,Guji 平均海拔在 1800 公尺以上(有人說 1800-2200),土地肥沃,顯著的日夜溫差,具備極佳的種植精品咖啡風土條件。依照我個人的品嚐經驗,標準的柑橘調,很棒的果酸,在我品嚐過的咖啡豆裡面,性價比絕對在前三名。

遺憾的是,谷吉區的南部,區內最有名的咖啡產地夏奇索 Shakiso,也是夙負盛名的金礦區,因為礦工、土地、種族因素,使得谷吉地區常常有公開的衝突與鎮壓,因為境內不太平,維護與採收咖啡需要額外人力與成本。當我看到衝突與鎮壓的資料,我瞬間聯想到兩個關鍵詞:血鑽石公平交易。當我們品嚐來自非洲的精品咖啡,我們付出的代價,和非洲人的「獲得」,可以在同一個天平上計量嗎?

有點涼意,但不知說什麼好。

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